Every Breaking Wave
Just like the U2 song ‘Every Breaking Wave’ implies, every breaking wave is different in all it’s vast and intricate beauty. No matter how much waves appear to be the same on a surface level, every breaking wave since the dawning of time has has held a uniqueness all its own. I guess you could say, much like the world of snowflakes or seashells. Snowflakes and seashells are really cool and all, but last I checked, you can’t surf on a snowflake or seashell. Because of this reality, every session in the ocean you encounter always maintains a new and certain wonderment, obviously elicited from God’s diversity and craftsmanship on such a grand level.
every breaking wave breaks different
Here below is some information from the mouths of professionals that you might find interesting to stew over: Coasts are shaped by the sea and the action of waves. The processes that take place are erosion, transportation and deposition. The action of waves The power of waves is one of the most significant forces of coastal change. Waves are created by wind blowing over the surface of the sea. As the wind blows over the sea, friction is created – producing a swell in the water. The energy of the wind causes water particles to rotate inside the swell and this moves the wave forward. The size and energy of a wave is influenced by: how long the wind has been blowing the strength of the wind how far the wave has travelled Waves can be destructive or constructive. When a wave breaks, water is washed up the beach – this is called the swash. Then the water runs back down the beach – this is called the backwash. With a constructive wave, the swash is stronger than the backwash. With a destructive wave, the backwash is stronger than the swash.
The type of wave that is produced is dependent on different factors. ◦ Type of swell ◦ Wind direction ◦ Slope of sea bed ◦ Sea floor features other factors are direction and Type of Swell Wind Direction Slope of Sea Floor Sea Floor Features
North Shore and how waves break at Pipeline
Don’t forget that you can get surf lessons or stand up paddle lessons with us at Oahu Surfing Experience … or, if surfing doesn’t interest you ladies, become a mermaid for a photo shoot, with Oahu Surfing Experience. Keep in mind; we know some great small wave spots that are away from the big waves, so you can remain calm and cool and feeling.
We at OahuSurfingExperience teach the most quality surfing lessons that surfing has to offer. If your a lady or a little girl and surfing doesn’t necessarily captivate you; we also offer a unique and exclusive mermaid model shoot that will absolutely intrigue the ladies and as well, give them memories that will last a life time. Keep in mind however, we absolutely are surfers at heart. So if we are not running a surf lesson or conducting a mermaid photo shoot,we more then likely will be out in the surf, tapping in to some valuable, “me time”. Because of this very reason, we strongly suggest that you book in advance with us, but it will be absolutely worth your commitment. Book now for your one of a kind opportunity and you will guaranteed walk away with skills and ocean safety knowledge that will last you a life time. Even when the waves are big we know of safe places to go.
808 497 7109 Email Oahusurfingexperience@aol.com
