ocean vernacular with pictures

Surfing at pipeline

The Banzai Pipeline, or simply Pipeline or Pipe, is a surfreef break located in Hawaii, off Ehukai Beach Park in Pupukea on O'ahu's North Shore. ... Pipeline is known for huge waves that break in shallow water just above a sharp and cavernous reef, forming large, hollow, thick curls of water that surfers can tube ride.

Beach break

 A beach break is a surf-able wave that is breaking onto a beach. The wave is created by the shallow sandy bottom, or sometimes a jetty. A beach break can either be caused by a sand bar out a little ways, or by the wave forming against the shoreline. The advantage to this type of surfing is that you normally don’t have to paddle for miles to get out to the breaking waves. Beach breaks that are caused by sand bars are not always reliable as the underlying sand can move in big storms and swells. Beach break waves do not always break as softly as point break waves or reef waves. On the other hand, wiping out on a beach break tends to be a lot more forgiving than the alternatives.

Blown out

Wave conditions in which the wind is blowing so hard that the waves are sloppy, messy and very hard to ride.  “I checked the waves, it’s all blown out this morning.”

Like when, waves that would otherwise be good have been rendered too choppy by wind. Bomb: An exceptionally large set wave. Chop or choppy: Waves that are subjected to cross winds, have a rough surface (chop) and do not break cleanly.

Chop or choppy

What are choppy waves in surfing? Choppy waves are waves that are messy and disorganized, usually as a result of very strong winds and are usually part of a windswell. This means that the waves have traveled a shorter distance than better quality swell and are closer together and harder to ride.

Set Waves

In surf lingo, a wave set is a series - or group - of waves that are generally larger and often more powerful than the average for a given period of time or day.

They typically arrive in groups of between 2-to-15. But there might be more.

Their arrival tends to be generally consistent, with surfers waiting from five minutes to once an hour for the golden moment.

Knowing when set waves are approaching will help surfers identify the best ones for their rides and avoid getting pounded or caught inside.

The "cleanup set" usually goes unridden and sweeps the lineup clear of surfers.

Waves are a product of the wind. When the wind blows over a large surface of open ocean water, it creates ripples.

The size and extent of a ripple depend on the wind speed, the distance it blows across the water, and the length of time the wind blows.

Bomb

Bomb means a very large wave, well beyond the session's normal wave size.

Closeout

A closeout wave in surfing is one you are suefing down the wave sidways toward theclear water. Then the wave throws out or exploads out ahead of your surfing speed and closes out in front of you. Wave too fast or badly formed that you cannot surf on it.

A runner

A wave that breaks. really fast almost to hard to ride.

Face Plant

A fall with your face moving toward the ground or a surface before the rest of your body: I tried to do a handstand but did a faceplant. SMART Vocabulary: related words and phrases. Falling and dropping.

Glassy

A very favourable, windless surf condition in which the texture of the ocean surface is ultra-smooth, like glass.

Gnarly

Heavy, intense waves or situations. Very often overused.

Goofy-footed

A surfer who places their right leg forward while surfing. This is more common for a left handed person, although may not necessarily relate to a person's "handedness". 

Going off

A term to describe very good, consistent surf. Example: "Check it out, bro. It's just going off!" Also refers to a surfer who is surfing particularly well.

Grommet

Young surfer. Sometimes shortened to "grom". Can also refer to children in general, not just those who surf.

Gun

A long narrow board designed for surfing big waves. The term comes from elephant gun, a big board being needed for big waves in the same way a big gun imagined necessary for big animals.

Line up

lineup” – the area where the waves normally begin breaking. Surfers sit on their boards in the lineup and wait for waves to break.

outside outage back

The area outside of the lineup or break line where surfers in the lineup initially observe sets of waves as they approach. Often a term used to warn other surfers in the lineup that a new set of waves is approaching. overhead

Wave heights taller than the surfer riding it. Often used as a measurement scale of waves such as 2 feet overhead, three feet overhead, double overhead, triple overhead. Etc.

Point break

When the conditions are perfect a point break can create a really long wave to ride as the wave wraps around a point or headland and then runs along the coastline of a bay or cove. Point breaks can have rock, coral, or sandy bottoms. Most surfers would consider a point break the perfect wave as the actual time riding the surfboard will be the longest. Due to the length of the individual waves and the ensuing time on the surfboard you will often see multiple surfers all riding the one point break wave (without fear of injuring each other). Point break waves can sometimes be difficult to get onto. Beware of surrounding rocks on the headland or point if you lose your surfboard or get swept onto them. Point breaks can be very reliable under the right conditions, as the headland or point that contributes to the waves is fixed.

Crumble / Crumbly Waves

Waves affected by an onshore wind are said to crumble. The lip of the waves will "crumble" along the line and as a result spoil the waves for surfers.



You can gain a great wealth of knowledge in the world of surfing by signing up with  www.Oahusurfingexperience.com  . Surf Lessons that are priceless. Within just one session with  OSE , you’re sure to walk away with a huge leap in confidence and the right tools to keep you progressing forward in your surfing game. Oahu Surfing Experience also offer guided  SUP Tours (Stand Up Paddle)  to remote and breathtaking locations. The most unique service we have on offer is exclusive mother/daughter  mermaid photo shoots  during the sunset hours on the beautiful North Shore of O`ahu, Hawaii. Book now for we have only limited opportunity.



You can gain a great wealth of knowledge in the world of surfing by signing up with www.Oahusurfingexperience.com . Surf Lessons that are priceless. Within just one session with OSE , you’re sure to walk away with a huge leap in confidence and the right tools to keep you progressing forward in your surfing game. Oahu Surfing Experience also offer guided SUP Tours (Stand Up Paddle)  to remote and breathtaking locations. The most unique service we have on offer is exclusive mother/daughter mermaid photo shoots during the sunset hours on the beautiful North Shore of O`ahu, Hawaii. Book now for we have only limited opportunity.